Down from the Himalayas

I survived the Himalayas. The two Finns (Otto and Matti, not Neil and Tim), a human-packhorse of a porter named Santi, our guide Monos and myself completed the Helembu Trail in seven days. I kept a journal while up there, having just looked at it I realised it's long and not particularly insightful (the thin air at 4600meters doesn't make for deep thinking) so I think the whole story is one for another time. In short though the Himalayas are an absolutely magical place. The stillness and quietness, clear sky, cold weather, thin air - all the absolute opposite of the last few weeks in India (noise, pollution, heat and smog).

I was trying to sum up the experience at our last stop, a hostel in the town of Dounche when someone turned the TV to Al Jazerra. The random noise of the the Hindi/Nepali channels was replaced with fragments of English which my distracted and exhausted mind gradually assembled into a story. At least 100 killed in Mumbai, terrorist attacks targeting westerners, hotels on fire...As a westerner who could well have been in Mumbai (although not at the expensive hotels targeted) what I was writing seemed less significant. I gave up on my writing and drinking roxi to tune into the story. We flicked between Hindi and English channels for a few hours before turning in early, the triumphant atmosphere very much subdued.

I'm back in Kathmandu now, and will be flying into Delhi tomorrow. I'm avoiding the 48 hour overland commute partly because of the security situation in India and partly because the 9 hour drive from Dounche to Kathmandu (the worst road I've ever been on, bar none) badly jarred my neck and the idea of rattling down the mountains and across the desert to India for two days really doesn't appeal.

I've got two days left once I get back to Delhi so may make my way out to a Hari Krishner community a friend of the family has links to. One or two night out there and that will be about it for this particular adventure. I've very much enjoyed everything but western civilisation, my girlfriend and a family Christmas are foremost in my mind now.

Greg
Katmandu, Nepal
29 November 2008.